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| COLLECTIONS, RESEARCH PAPERS AND SPECIAL PROJECTS
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Gems of Advice Amethyst, emerald, carnelian, jet. Beautiful jewelry is the stuff of princely quests and dragons' hoards. But like all earthly treasures, Time will corrupt it unless the charms of conservation are used. Storing your jewelry in a dragon's cave has some advantages: security is great, and light levels are low. Turquoise, topaz and lapis lazuli can change colour or fade, and opals can crack if exposed to prolonged sunlight. Ultraviolet radiation can cause white zircon to revert to brown. On the other hand, in the heat of a dragon's fiery breath, amethysts may change colour, and garnets and sapphires fracture. Having pirates bury your treasure will avoid both light and heat, but it is difficult to control humidity on the Spanish Main. Marcasite is sensitive to high humidity and aquamarines can crack in water. Steel beads will rust. And all that heave ho-ing - jewels can be damaged by abrasion. Diamonds can scratch other diamonds. Tiny scratches on the surface of a polished gem or metal setting reduces reflectiveness. Rubies, emeralds, sapphires and topaz can be fractured by sudden knocks and shivering timbers. Jewelry is best stored in individual containers. It may come in a specially designed box, but remember that the acids in ordinary cardboard, felt and leather cause silver to tarnish. Pouches of cotton or linen are ideal for rings and brooches, but necklaces and bracelets should be rolled in acid-free tissue to prevent abrasion and tangling. Necklaces should be kept straight to reduce strain on the string. Attach any labels with thread; adhesives can harm metals and removing the residue can be harmful. If you are going to parade your finery, inspect it first with a magnifying glass. Ensure that all mechanisms - links, clasps, hinges - are sound. Old gold is softer than modern, and links can wear through easily. Consider a safety chain for valuable necklaces, bracelets and brooches. When dressing for the ball, don your jewels after applying scent and hairspray. Amber and pearls are sensitive to solvents, and the blue dye that changes jasper to "Swiss Lapis" can wear off in the presence of cosmetics and perfume. Before any attempt at cleaning, make sure all stones are secure. Work over a towel-covered tray in case anything falls. If the setting is "open" (back of the jewel exposed) and the piece does NOT include pearls, opals, ivory, enamel or turquoise, it can be cleaned with a little neutral detergent in warm water. Apply the solution with a stencil brush, rinse in clean water and leave to dry on tissue. (Drying with a cloth could snag the claws.) With enclosed settings, moisture can damage the foil at the back. Freshen with a dry stencil brush or wipe with a swab dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Pearls, opals and turquoise can be dry cleaned with powdered magnesium carbonate. Place the jewel in a plastic jar and cover with the powder. Shake gently, then leave overnight. Remove powder traces with a soft brush. Whether your jewels were mined by evil trolls or purchased from a reputable dealer, a little extra care will ensure that they are still worth a king's ransom. For more information or advice on this topic, please contact your local museum, art gallery or archives. |
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